What You Can Make With Flour: Types, Protein Content and Five Uses

Protein content decides whether flour gives you an airy loaf or a tender cake: all-purpose has 11.7%, bread flour 12.7%, cake flour 10%. A guide to flour types, roux, breading and the rule on raw dough.

What flour can do depends on its protein content. According to King Arthur Baking's specifications, all-purpose flour contains 11.7% protein, bread flour 12.7%, cake flour 10%, pastry flour 8% and whole wheat flour 13.2%. Two of those proteins, glutenin and gliadin, form gluten when they meet water: a network that stretches and snaps back like rubber. More protein means stronger gluten, more trapped gas and a higher rise; less protein gives the softer, finer crumb of cakes, biscuits and pie crusts.

The number on the bag measures ash, not fineness

Labels such as type 550 or the German Type 1050 do not describe how finely the flour is milled but how much mineral residue is left when it is burned. According to Wikipedia's overview of wheat flour, the German type number is the amount of ash in milligrams per 100 g of dry flour: Type 405 is ordinary white flour, Type 550 a stronger bread flour, and Types 1050 and 1600 darker flours for breads with more of the grain. Italian grades 00, 0, 1 and 2 describe moisture, maximum ash, cellulose and minimum gluten content. Croatian type 400 and type 550 follow the same ash principle, while the words "glatko" (smooth) and "oštro" (coarse) on Croatian bags refer only to the grind.

Pancakes and skillet doughs: weigh, don't scoop

Pancakes, fritters and skillet flatbreads are made with all-purpose flour at 11.7% protein because they need a soft, pliable texture rather than strong gluten. A cup of all-purpose flour weighs 120 g (4 1/4 oz) on King Arthur Baking's ingredient weight chart, but only when it is spooned in loosely; a packed cup holds considerably more and the batter turns heavy. A kitchen scale removes that variable. Add the liquid gradually and stir until smooth; lumps form when dry flour suddenly meets too much water at once.

Bread, pizza and whole wheat flour

For yeasted doughs, King Arthur Baking's rule applies: the higher the protein content, the higher the potential rise. That is why bread flour at 12.7% is chosen for loaves, pizza and rolls. Whole wheat flour has even more protein (13.2%), but it contains bran and germ whose sharp edges cut gluten strands. The same source advises replacing 25% of the white flour in a recipe with whole wheat first and adding more liquid to soften the bran. Whole wheat flour also ages faster: according to the North Dakota State University (NDSU) food storage guide, it keeps 3 to 6 months unopened, versus 6 to 12 months in the pantry for white flour. The storage guide on the blog covers this in detail.

Roux: equal parts flour and fat

A roux is a mixture of flour and fat cooked together in equal parts by weight (Wikipedia, Roux). The fat is melted, the flour stirred in, and the mixture cooked until the raw-flour taste disappears and the desired colour develops. The darker the roux, the less it thickens: a dark chocolate-coloured roux has roughly one quarter of the thickening power of a white one. A light roux is the base of béchamel and velouté, a darker one of espagnole and goulash. Add the liquid gradually, and bring soups and stews to the boil: the Croatian Food Agency's (HAH) "5 keys to food safety" call for 70 °C (158 °F), which also cooks the flour in the roux through.

Breading: flour, egg, crumbs

In classic breading, flour is the first layer: it absorbs surface moisture from meat or vegetables and gives the egg something to cling to. The choice of crumbs changes the crust. On King Arthur Baking's weight chart, a quarter cup of dry breadcrumbs weighs 28 g while a whole cup of panko weighs 50 g; panko is therefore less than half as dense and gives a lighter, crispier crust, matching Wikipedia's description of panko as crustless bread ground into flakes. Cutlets for breading are available from local butchers, and breaded and baked dishes are in the recipes section.

Raw dough is not for tasting

Flour is a raw food. The FDA warns that grain from the field can carry Salmonella and pathogenic strains of E. coli, and milling into flour does not kill them. Since 2009, several outbreaks linked to raw flour and cake mixes have caused 168 known illnesses and 20 hospitalisations. So raw dough and batter are not tasted, hands and worktops are washed after handling flour, and homemade dry pancake or cookie mixes are kept in a dry, tightly sealed container. The only way to make a flour-based dish safe is to bake or cook it.

Sources

• King Arthur Baking: Protein percentage in flour
• Wikipedia: Wheat flour (flour types by ash content)
• FDA: Handling Flour Safely
• NDSU Extension: Food Storage Guide